27 March 2008

What Makes Alain Ducasse Tres Hot?

Posted by Webmaster under: Articles by Ernest .

“Cooking is at once child’s play and adult joy. And cooking done with care is an act of love.”
Craig Claiborne, Craig Claiborne’s Kitchen Primer

We had just finished our morning culinary class at the Ecole Ritz Escoffier Paris, when our classmates Sachiko Okawa and Aimee Chee from Hong Kong wanted to have lunch at Alain Ducasse’s Restaurant at the prestigious Hotel Plaza Athenee. Knowing this is one of the best and premiere gourmet destinations, this was a chance of a lifetime. The problem was you needed a two month advance reservation for a small group, a year for a large party, but since we were staying at the Ritz, considered one of the best hotels in the world, we asked the concierge if their was any possibility we could get a table within the day. He had a huge smile and said “Monsieur, this is the Ritz, may I give you an answer in ten minutes.” The Ritz being Ritz, it took less then five minutes for him to call that we have a 12:15 lunch reservation. We thanked him for his effort and gave a huge tip for doing the impossible. Carlo and I proceeded to our rooms, fixed ourselves, and met our lady friends in the lobby. We all hopped in the Benz limo and took the ten minute drive.

The attire was formal where the men had to be in suits in this 30 seater restaurant. We were warmly greeted by the receptionist, who guided us to our table at the center of the restaurant. The restaurant has very high ceilings, tall mirrors at the center and sides of the room, huge glittering chandeliers, and classic French fixtures. The servers were in tuxedos, the cutleries sparkling and the table setting perfect down to every detail. The set menu was in French and all four of us decided to order everything so we could compare each dish and get the chance to try every item served from caviar, truffles, and foie gras. The presentation of each dish was impressive, an artwork with the plate as its medium of expression, highlighting the finest in French Culinary. The taste, especially the foie gras with pigeon was exceptional, using an array of spices without overpowering the natural flavors and still retaining its soft, creamy texture. No wonder he is the Alain Ducasse TO THE WORLD!

To celebrate the occasion, Carlo ordered a bottle of Moet et Chandon and complimentary French macaroon and chocolates were given just before the dessert, consisting of their three best sellers. After our feast that set us back 300 euros each or roughly nineteen thousand pesos, we returned to the Ritz and saw the concierge. We exchanged pleasantries and he asked how our lunch was. We told him it was the best! I had to go back to my room to get ready for my afternoon class, but before I left we requested if he could reserve a table at Hotel Costes at the lounge bar for drinks that night. With a huge smile he said “Monsieur this is the Ritz, may I give you an answer in ten minutes.” We laughed and true enough Ritz being Ritz we got our reservation, but that is another experience all together.

French Vanilla Cream

a) Prepare 6- 1/2 capacity ramekins or custard cups. You may also used 12 demitasse cups (tiny coffee cups available at the lower ground level, house ware section, SM Megamall B, Mandaluyong. If using custard cups, grease bottom and sides with softened butter.

b) 1 vanilla bean-cut lengthwise and split into 2. Scrape of the seeds. (Santis, Rustan’s fresh, Rockwell) or use 2 tsp. Vanilla extract, 2 tbsp. unflavored gelatin, 2 cups Magnolia Fresh Milk, 1 cup cold all purpose cream, ¾ granulated sugar.

c) Optional accompaniment: 1 jar (½ cup) magnolia best fruits mango or apple cinnamon jam. Heat over low fire with 3 tbsp. water. Put in a sauceboat.

1) Procedure: Put the vanilla seeds or extract in a medium bowl with the unflavored gelatin, sugar, milk. Let stand for 5 minutes to allow the gelatin to “bloom” or expand. Then put the bowl over a pan with 2 inches deep of boiling water. Stir with a wire whisk until simmering. Remove from fire and add cold all purpose cream. Mix with wire whisk. Pour on prepared molds. Refrigerate until firm, about 1 hour.

2) Dip the bottom of each ½ capacity mold in hot water for 1 minute. Unmold on dessert plate. Note: if using demitasse cups, serve as is with its accompanying underliner (plate) and a teaspoon. Decorate with mint leaves, if desired.

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